There are several ways of breeding currants, any gardener has the right to defend his own, verified by personal experience. Each of the methods has its own pros and cons, so it is useful to know at least the most basic ones in order to dwell on the one that, in your opinion, is the best.
Instructions
Step 1
Propagation by cuttings. A very popular way to provide a fairly large yield of planting material.
Prepare cuttings when the snow melts (March-April), when the currants enter the bud swelling phase. Give preference to lignified annual basal shoots and annual growths of the 1st and 2nd order of branching. The branches must be sufficiently ripe and the apical bud well developed. The optimal length of the cutting is 15-18 cm, it should have 4-6 buds. Cut the cuttings obliquely, make the upper oblique cut at a distance of 1 cm above the bud (the upper part of the shoot is not needed). When cutting, it is best to use a sharp knife rather than a pruner. The pruner crushes and moistens the cut site, makes notches and burrs on it, and this worsens the survival of the cuttings.
Prepare the soil. Apply compost or manure, dig up the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm, picking out roots and breaking up lumps - the soil should be loose and fertile. Spill the garden well. Plant the cuttings in rows with a distance of 40 cm, while the distance between the cuttings of one row should be at least 10-15 cm. Plant the cuttings obliquely, leaving 1-2 buds above the ground. Mulch the surface with dry compost, peat or pine needles, or cover the bed with a dark film, having previously made holes in it for cuttings.
In the summer, carefully look after the plantings, and then by the fall you will have strong strong bushes that can be dug up along with a lump of earth and planted in a permanent place.
Step 2
Reproduction by the method of horizontal layers. Quite an easy way that does not require a lot of labor costs.
Choose a high-yielding, healthy bush that is not damaged by pests and diseases as the mother plant. In early spring, thoroughly fertilize the soil under it, dig up with a pitchfork and level it. Select sprout branches for propagation: your choice should be on well-developed annual basal shoots or two-year-old branches with a large increase. Pinch their tops.
Make grooves along the radius from the bush (not very deep) and place the selected branch-shoots in them, pressing them in several places with wooden spears so that the shoots firmly touch the ground. Wait until the height of young shoots reaches 10-12 cm, and fill them up to half with humus (it is good to moisten it before that). Apply the second "powder" when the shoots grow another 15 cm. In the fall, separate the young bushes from the mother bush and plant in a permanent place.
Step 3
Reproduction by dividing the bush. The advantage of this method is that the next year you get quite powerful bushes, the disadvantage is a certain refusal to harvest next year's currants from a divided mother bush.
Dig up a mature, well-bearing and healthy shrub. Shake off the soil from the roots and lightly disassemble the roots. Then cut the bush into pieces so that each piece looks like a young bush, i.e. had roots, branches, buds. Plant new bushes in a permanent location and water.
